In light of Alaïa’s return to New York City for its spring 2025 show, WWD looks back at the French fashion house’s first New York runway moment in 1982.

Azzedine Alaïa will forever be known as fashion’s “King of Cling.” The Tunisian-born couturier honed his skills at Dior, Guy Larouche, and Thierry Mugler. He opened his namesake atelier in 1964, and launched ready to wear in 1980. Described in WWD as what’s next and reigniting Paris’ understated elegance in 1981, his first rtw collection of superbly cut, eye-catching black dresses was largely shot on the streets of Paris, without an official runway debut.

A year later in 1982, Bergdorf Goodman introduced him to America. He returned to America again in 1985. By the late ’80s, Alaïa had a solid following, with boutiques in America and Europe. But, in 1987, the Tunisian tailor opted to do fashion on his own terms and remained off the official fashion month calendar. The press thought him to be difficult but nevertheless they obliged him and waited for every collection to be released on Alaïa’s terms. A true visionary, Alaïa never disappointed them.

Alaïa looks can be seen on women of all ages, including his muses, Grace Jones, Tina Turner, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell. Recently, next gen celebrities Kaia Gerber, Kendall Jenner and Zendaya have embraced the brand, now designed by Pieter Mulier and owned by Richemont.