Dancing to the beat of grunge and hip-hop, the 1990s ushered in a new frontier for American fashion. Tentpole names like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren latched onto an ever-changing zeitgeist, with Tommy Hilfiger and Donna Karan following suit, recently immortalised in the fashion docuseries In Vogue: The 1990s. That ‘American Moment’ birthed household names like Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs, and though the decades since have offered up enticing new ideas, American fashion hasn’t experienced the same kind of cultural domination it did in the 90s, playing second fiddle to those European giants making up for lost time. But the wait for a New American Moment could – possibly – be over.

Last night, at the 2024 CFDA Awards, that new moment crystallised into view in a very real way, as celebs ascended the steps of New York’s Natural History Museum in the next generation of American designers. Of course, turning up in a non-American brand would be a bit of a faux pas – this is the Council of Fashion Designers of America after all – but, despite that, the clothing on display felt more like a declaration of newness than an endorsement of some status quo. Unlike their 90s forebears, today’s stars and designers offer a more expansive vision of what American fashion can be, less inhibited by the imagined constraints of race, gender and beauty ideals. On the night, model Alex Consani’s handsy Area gown was a naked dress that was equal parts demonic and divine, supermodels Alva Claire and Alva Claire were both sheathed in intricate creations from Womenswear Designer of the Year Diotima, while Hari Nef showed up in five-foot leather fringe from Proenza Schouler.

With the CFDA Awards celebrating American fashion’s cutting edge, the rest of the recipients also reflected this new moment. Willy Chavarria won big on and off the red carpet, picking up American Menswear Designer of the Year during the ceremony, while also dressing Latin stars Omar Apollo, J Balvin and Danny Ramirez for the event. At his most recent NYFW show, Chavarria boldly declared that he was “the new Chicano Ralph Lauren”, which now seems to make perfect, poetic sense for this new moment. Elsewhere, Raul Lopez picked up American Accessory Designer of the Year for his brand Luar, arriving at the ceremony with musician Sevdaliza in satin drapery and bold embellishments, while French singer Yseult flew the flag for eternal American outsider Rick Owens. Thom Browne – who broke through in the mid-00s just after the 90s boom – opted to dress two polar opposite names, with Erykah Badu in voluminous layers and a dramatic headpiece, and pop princess Addison Rae in an aqua-inspired mermaid gown. Though it may be fun to revel in the successes of decades gone by, last night’s CFDA carpet delivered on its promise to the fashion stars of tomorrow.

Scroll through the gallery above to see all the best dressed guests at the 2024 CFDA Awards.