Sport climbing in the Olympics consists of three disciplines: bouldering, lead, and speed.
Bouldering: Athletes climb a 4.5-meter wall without ropes, aiming to reach the top in the fewest attempts within a limited time.
Lead: Climbers attempt to go as high as possible on a 15-meter wall within six minutes.
Speed: In one-on-one elimination rounds and timed races, climbers scale a 15-meter wall with a five-degree incline.
Top men complete the climb in less than six seconds, while the best women typically finish in under seven seconds.
Changes from Tokyo 2021
In these Games, speed climbing is a separate event, while bouldering and lead remain combined. This change allows climbers to focus on their specialties. The scoring system has also been updated. Unlike Tokyo, where scores from each discipline were multiplied to get a final score, the new system awards up to 200 points for bouldering and lead.In bouldering, climbers score points by advancing through various zones on the wall and reaching the top hold. Points are deducted for attempts. A perfect round, where climbers flash four boulder problems, earns 100 points.In lead, athletes score by successfully holding up to 40 holds, with points increasing as they climb higher. Partial points are awarded for moves toward the next hold even if the hold is not securely grasped.
Twenty men and 20 women compete in bouldering and lead. In speed climbing, 14 men and 14 women participate. They perform two speed runs on different walls, with rankings based on their fastest time, determining matchups for elimination rounds.
As of Tuesday, an 18-year-old from Texas, Sam Watson, holds the record for the fastest-ever Olympic climb. Watson set a world record of 4.75 seconds in speed climbing at a temporary wall in the Parisian suburbs.
Speed climbing requires intense focus. Spectators must avoid distractions, as athletes can scale the 15-meter wall in about five seconds, racing toward the red buzzer at the top.
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